To stem the spread of COVID, Wake Forest asked non-clinical personnel to stay home starting in mid-March. Anne Newman, my friend and editor of Journals of Gerontology: Medical Sciences, tells me that the the rate of submissions has been 50% higher than normal during the pandemic. So I guess some folks are cranking it. I felt bad that I didn’t have a project to focus my attention on during the shutdown.
I found inspiration in a YouTube video entitled, “How to Mix Every Cocktail.” New York bartender Jeff Solomon shows how to make 51 classic cocktails. It struck me as a good idea to set out on a quest to make all of them. I completed the quest in early July (500 XP). It was harder than I thought. In North Carolina, spirits are sold through state run stores. This makes exotic ingredients hard to get. Sam, my son and questing companion, made a side quest to the Plaguelands of South Carolina to secure some of the more exotic spirits like cachaça and crème de viollette (2oo XP). Some ingredients we just couldn’t find (rum agricole), and so we had to make substitutions or omit. It was kind of expensive: the varieties of spirits and other ingredients add up. Beyond that, I decided that I needed proper jiggers, shakers, a muddler, a mixing glass, a swizzle spoon, and the appropriate glassware (collins and coupe glasses). These I acquired with the help and forbearance of Nannette, my internet-purchasing advisor and spouse. It turns out that ice is a big deal. It needs to be fresh and of the right size. Our refrigerator makes lousy crushed ice, but we had to go with that for several creations. I got some some special trays to make ice specifically for drinks served in collins and rocks glasses.
The cocktails on the video are supposed to be the “classic” versions, but sometimes the video showed ingredients but not amounts. There are at least a dozen websites for looking up recipes, but the recipes frequently differ on proportions and sometimes on ingredients. There is a daiquiri called the Hemingway (one of Sam’s favorites & shown in the picture). The story is that Ernest Hemingway hated added sugar in his cocktails and the Jeff Solomon version has none, but there are several online recipes calling for simple syrup (sugar dissolved in water). The drier version is better.
Best and Worst Cocktails
I have long been a fan of the Old Fashioned and the Manhattan. These remain favorites of mine. Aside from these two, here are the nine cocktails that I especially liked.
1. French 75. This is a cocktail with gin, lemon juice, and simple syrup, topped with champagne. It is the consensus #1 hit at my house. Even my wife, who doesn’t often like mixed drinks, likes this one. There is a version which uses cognac instead of gin, but I like the gin version better.
2. Corpse Reviver Number 2. This is a gin, lemon, triple sec, Lillet blanc cocktail, with the glass getting an absinthe rinse. Very refreshing with interesting complexity.
3. Tom Collins. Gin, lemon juice, and simple syrup in a collins glass with club soda poured over. A great summer drink and very refreshing.
4. Bramble. Lemon juice, simple syrup, muddled blackberries, and gin over crushed ice. Wonderfully intense berry flavor.
5. Vieux Carré. This is a Manhattan variant from New Orleans that also includes cognac and Benedictine.
6. Margarita. A classic, and better with Cointreau than triple sec.
7. Boulevardier. This is a Manhattan variant with Campari. It’s on the bitter side which favors sipping, and it’s nicely complex.
8. Sidecar. Brandy, lemon juice, and Cointreau. The classic version rims the glass with powdered sugar. I didn’t do that. Still very tasty.
9. Gimlet. Lime juice, simple syrup, and gin.
Honorable mention to: the whiskey sour, the Sazerac, the Jack Rose, and the Monte Carlo.
Among my least favorite cocktails were the Aperol Spritz, the Moscow mule, the daiquiri, the Presbyterian, the Negroni and the 20th Century. I learned that rum-based cocktails are not my favorites, and I don’t really enjoy “buck” drinks, which have lime, spirits, and ginger beer/ale.
Things I Learned On The Way
If you’re only mixing different alcohols, then you stir them together. You shake when you’re mixing alcohols with non-alcohols. So when James Bond asks for a martini that’s “shaken not stirred”, it shows how rarefied his discernment is. I now know the difference between a Hawthorne strainer and Julep strainer, and why Boston shakers are better than Cobbler shakers. I know what a whip shake is, and the “reverse dry shake” which sounds like something you do to maintain social distancing.
Ingredient quality matters a lot. Several cocktail recipes call for either triple sec or Cointreau. They are both orange flavored and sweet, but Cointreau is more expensive, higher proof, and more intense in flavor. I ended up trying different brands of triple sec: the worst is little more than sugar water with a slight hint of orange. Regardless, drinks made with Cointreau were better than the versions made with triple sec. Similarly, when I made some drinks with cheap grenadine, I couldn’t imagine why these were considered “classic cocktails”. I remade them with a better brand, and it made a big difference. Bitters are magical. Bitters are intense aromatic tinctures that add body and complexity to drinks. It’s amazing how of a difference a few shakes makes to the overall drink experience.
Drinking cocktails might cause health problems, but scurvy isn’t one of them. The quest required bags of limes and lemons and the occasional grapefruit. A typical cocktail might ask for 0.75 – 1 oz of fresh lime juice which is about what you’d get from 1 lime. This provides about 33% of you daily vitamin C requirement. So, you might drink three just to make sure you’re getting enough vitamin C. Simple syrup is slightly less simple than you’d think. Simple syrup is 1 cup of sugar dissolved into a cup of water usually over heat to make it all go faster. You have to be careful not boil it because the sucrose breaks down to give fructose and glucose and has an off-flavor that you don’t really want.
Many of the cocktails in the video date from the 1930s. One can imaging that most folks didn’t have the resources to buy the variety of spirits and related ingredients to try very many different drinks. Also, most households did not have refrigeration until after 1940, and the capacity to make a lot of ice was probably even rarer. One can see how it made sense for bar owners and restauranteurs to invest in these items to attract patrons for the novelty of spirit concoctions that they couldn’t create at home.
I’ve tailed off in the number of drinks I’m mixing, but I will continue to build my repertoire. There are many standard drinks that weren’t on the video (e.g., White Russian, Bloody Mary) and I’m making promising newer cocktails (e.g., Enzoni, South Slope) that show up in my YouTube feed. On a positive note, my family has a deep well for Father’s day and Birthday gift ideas for quite some time.